We're At A 'Tipping Point' On The High Cost Of Food And Drink In America

There's synchronicity happening around the nation

Bon Appétit did a timely piece that I came across just as our first on-the-ground report from Barcelona was hitting the Stack.

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More from Barcelona in a minute.

But first …

In more than a dozen conversations with restaurant-goers across the US, people said that price increases hadn’t shaken their loyalty to their favorite restaurants. If anything, supporting a beloved neighborhood mom-and-pop has become akin to a civic duty. But diners today are less likely to take a risk on a restaurant that they’ve never tried, and if the meal isn’t incredible, they’re unlikely to return. They’re more suspicious of hype and less willing to dine out on impulse. They’re looking for deals, and they’re splurging only when they’re confident a meal will be worth it.

Sounds familiar.

“It’s not as fun as it used to be. It’s not as carefree,” said Vanessa Carbajal, a Los Angeles resident who works in content, and who previously worked in the restaurant industry. “Now you feel a bit rushed. The vibes are different, get in get out, and nobody’s having a great time.”

Multiple people also said they’re still willing to splurge, at least on one kind of night out: omakase. “Regular day-to-day dining has gotten so expensive for something sub par,” says Justin Kim, a Seattle resident who used to cook in restaurant kitchens and now works as a data analyst. But spending $150 to $200 on omakase? No problem. High-end sushi is defined by both simplicity and perfectionism, which means diners trust its quality and are unlikely to compare it to a meal they could have at home.

This all resonates.

And it’s not a problem in Spain.

Because—here again—it’s a part of the cultural fabric. To gather over and around food and drink. It’s a good chicken-and-egg situation. Relatively low—or outright low—prices portend high volume. High volume permits relatively low—or outright low—prices.

We’ve been talking about this for well over a year in this newsletter. Ahead of the curve, the Bon Appétit findings merely reinforce and amplify what we already know—

Yikes! Lo mismo en Los Angeles. The Same in Los Angeles.

It’s funny that we created Happy Hour in the United States—the ultimate expression of this price-to-volume relationship—yet we have all but abandoned the concept. At least for all practical intents and purposes.

We’ll never have Spanish culture in America, but how about bringing back Happy Hour culture? Because today’s happy hours are increasingly weak. It’s high time for more bars and restaurants to do the right thing and for government to help them do it. A happy hour bill in local city councils and state assemblies to throw some of the millions and billions we put into useless stuff into initiatives that’ll improve conditions and quality of life on the ground.

As a (good) example of how we (for better or worse have to) piecemeal things in our society—

Imagine a California where you can buy a beer at your favorite bar or restaurant, take it outside and drink it on the street with a friend. That could soon be a reality, if state and local officials clear the way.

A bill proposed by California Sen. Scott Wiener (D-San Francisco) would allow the consumption of alcohol on public streets in zones designated for tippling …

“People want to be outdoors; they want to gather with their community,” said Wiener. “We have these very strict alcohol laws in California that sometimes need to be made more flexible.

“This is really about giving cities the ability to decide what works for their public spaces,” he added. “And for some cities, whether it’s in the downtown area or a town square or a particular block, they should have the ability to create an entertainment zone to allow bars and restaurants to sell both food and alcohol onto the street. Let’s allow people to enjoy themselves with their friends and neighbors.”

There’s real synchronicity happening right now. Thankfully, we’re not the only ones who see what’s going on and read it as writing on the wall that must be addressed.

Vamos a ver que pasa. We are going to see what happens.

We spent Saturday and Sunday night with

Charlie Brown

, who writes

The Capsule Pantry

on the Stack, and her Husband,

Sam Dixon Brown

.

One of the upsides of my career choices over the years is that I met, got acquainted with and, in some cases, have become friends with some of the sharpest, most interesting, down-to-Earth and nicest people. Charlie and Sam sit high on that list.

Right up there with these guys—

How The Scolding A Co-Worker Gave Me 25 Years Ago Led To Me Living The Semi-Retired Life Today

There are certain people you meet and you immediately know you like them and you’ll be friends for a long time. Even if you don’t see one another all of the time. With Charlie and Sam that will change. They live in Porto, Portugal. And soon, Melisse and I will live in Spain.

Charlie and Sam are wine experts. Not the snobby and pretentious type. But the nerdy kind. I think they took that for the compliment it was meant to be when I told them.

So they took us on a natural wine bar tour. If you’d like to replicate it, here are the details form my handy Google timeline—

The first stop—035/BAR—is a bit away from the center of Barcelona, but it’s hardly in a suburban environment. It’s a neighborhood place with great wine.

Next, back to the center and El Born to L’Anima del Vi (run by a French husband and wife team) and a place that has been on my list for a long time—Bar Brutal. All amazing.

And all at least half of what you’d pay for the equivalent in Los Angeles.

Charlie and Sam said wine freaks would freak out if they knew you were drinking this bottle.

On Monday morning, we had breakfast inside Mercado del Ninot, one of the many neighborhood markets throughout Spanish cities. It’s attached to a Mercadona supermercado, where we did a mock Trader Joe’s grocery store run. In a couple of days, I’ll add things up and make the price comparison between the two places.

That $9.17 charge below is for a liter of fresh-squeezed orange juice (you squeeze it yourself) and a 250ml jar of coconut cream.

The $14.98 is for breakfast—two cappuccinos, one cafe with milk, two empandillas, two croquetas with jamon and cheese, one churro and one generous order of pan con tomate (bread with tomato) with lots of great-tasting olive oil.

In LA, the equivalent breakfast would you—at minimum—$30.

Before we close today, a quick preview from the supermarket.

See the first few lines of this post—

No Pepsi, No Doritos!

Then, see this, from Monday morning!

23 ounces for 3.50 euros. You pay a premium for the American brand. But still less than a 20-ounce bottle in America, which generally sets you back around $5, maybe closer to $6 or $7 in Los Angeles.